Jul 8, 2013

Shoemaking Marathon Week: Day One

After a lot of writing and answering questions for the past week, I decided that few actions need to be done. A lot of questions regarding the "Shoemaking & Techniques for Creative Footwear Design" book evolved in areas and directions that I didn't thought of them , but it is alright and I'm here to explore the book more thoroughly.
Because, nobody wants to read this post for an hour, and because I didn't wrote everything yet, and still thinking of how to explain some of the questions that you asked me or you may ask in the future, we will do it a whole week.
Here is what we will be exploring for the next three days:

* Day one: The most asked about chapter is chapter 2, the "Golden points". So, for the day one (today) I will be doing tutorial on" How to properly construct the Boot pattern according to gold points". 

* Day two : (Hello chapter 2, again) " How to adopt your design to Golden points by bending some rules". This one is for those of you who struggle with strict rules of pattern making. When your vision of design is way different from what the golden points are, and you know that if you break them, you will have some issues with your shoes. I will show you how to fix it in more creative and professional way.

* Day three: Since the chapter 6, (How to build an entire collection just with 2 types of lasts) "made the day" for some of you and that fact made my day as well, I wanted to extend this chapter ideas and that's what we going to do on the third day, " How to transform your sandal last into platform sandal last".

This is the schedule for next three days, and the rest will be updated, you are welcome to add your own questions that you had from the book, and I will try to include them as well.

Before I can continue to the tutorial, I want to talk about one important subject. I get a lot of emails from readers of this blog, regarding shoemaking, my posts, tutorials, this book and I want to thank you for doing this, it is the feedback that I need to go on and share what I know. But the problem is that I answer the same questions all the time, and I'm the only one who see your works, and to me that is a big waste, just lost information that we all could learn from. Question that you thought of is an answer that someone else need. You send me pictures of shoes that you made from my books and beside the fact that it fills me with pride, I really want everybody else to see it, to believe it is possible. You don't need me to stand behind your back and tell you how to cut your pattern, you don't need me in the class to understand the subject, you are doing this just by watching my videos and that's means a lot, at least to me.
I wanted to build a community of people who are interested in shoemaking, I didn't care and I still don't, if it's your hobby or if it's your profession, the important thing is your will to learn and to explore. Year and a half I'm writing this blog, and It's unbelievable to get emails from all over the world, from people interested in shoemaking.
You truly inspire me, to do what I do, so I'm willing to give my time, my knowledge, my experience and effort to push you forward and I want us to do it together. Your questions and your done shoes will help others and you to achieve and upgrade your skills, I believe it would be beneficial to all of us.
Please, from now on post your questions here on the blog or on Shoemaking & Creative community of my blog on Google+, you are welcome to upload your works and creative ideas there, as some of you already did (thank you).

Link: Shoemaking & Creative Community

" How to properly construct the Boot pattern according to gold points".

1.  Create your basic pattern. Measure the height of the last heel. To do it right, you need to place a pencil under the front of the last. 

2.  Draw line 1 in 90 degrees to the line 2 and measure from point O the height of the last. In my case it's 6 cm. Attach basic pattern to point P, this way so the hell will peep out few mm.

3.  From the edge of last A, mark 2 mm and connect with a line to point W. Up to point A, mark 2 cm and draw through it 90 degrees line to line 2. Connection of those lines is the point K. Now mark line KF (as in the book).

4.  Through line F, draw a 90 degrees line to line 1. connect point F and point N with smooth line. ( N- as in pic1, chapter2).

5.  Measure on line 2 the distance PK1 and through K1 draw line LK1 in 90 degrees to line F. Connect points K and K1.

6.  Measure on line 2 the distance PK2 and through K2 draw line K2M in 90 degrees 
to line F. Connect points K1 and K2.

7.  Measure on line 2 the distance PK3 and through K3 draw line K3D in 90 degrees to line F. Connect points K2 and K3. 

8.  Find the center of K3D and from it measure up & down 0.8cm, where the line is higher it is the inner side of the boot.

How to find the line of the zipper:

9.  Find the middle of lines K3D, K2M, K1L, KF connect them by line, drawing the line till the end to point T. From the point T1, mark 1cm (point 2) and connect it with point T.

10.  Point T3 is the edge of the last on the line TT2. Form point T3 mark 1.5 cm. Now we have the point T4 and it will be the beginning of the zipper. Now, connect with a smooth line points T, T5, T6.

11. Check your pattern. The most important thing in the boot is for line 
FD to visually in 90 degrees to the floor, if not, so if you cut the paper pattern in the point K, we will correct the angle by closing or opening the gap. 

You can find all information in 
 "Shoemaking &Techniques for Creative Footwear Design"  book.

 See you tomorrow!

If this post was useful for you and you think you can integrate it in to your work, share this post to fallow shoemaker and post comment bellow.
Sveta Kletina


  1. I find your blog very inspiring, I read few blogs on shoemaking and you are the best.
    In the book you gave ex. for boot without the zipper, can you make a tutorial on this ?

  2. Thank you!
    Boot without a zipper is done the same way.

  3. I'm amazed, I must say. Rarely do I encounter a blog that's both
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    1. Thank you, much appreciate it and yes the purpose of this blog is not just blogging it's more about sharing information, useful information.
      You are welcome to join the email list for updates and you more than welcome to share it.


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