Sep 4, 2013

The Secret Of Having Multiply Lasts Collection With Only One Last


Almost all women like to wear high heel shoes and even those women who cannot walk with high heels or don't like them, still have in their wardrobe pair of high heels for a special occasion. I am too a sinner and I have many pairs of high heels in my closet. Our need as women to wear them is very obvious, and it is the visual impact of high heels on our physical appearance. We become taller, slimmer and as a result of it we feel more feminine and more attractive. This is despite the fact that everyone knows that wearing high heel shoes deforms the women feet. We know it, but we are ready to suffer to become more "attractive" and younger. You can notice it on some women or seen it in some horror photographs of deformed feet from years of wearing high heels shoes and shoes with pointed shape, where the fingers are clenched and squeezed together.
On such feet you will see the inflamed bone, on the big toe, increased of his normal size and it called "Bunion" by the medical terms. There is more horrible deformations to the foot, but I'm not going to talk about them now.
Almost all women over the age of 50 have the big toe bone sticking out (and not just them). But I will tell you a secret! Do you know that you can have "Bunion" when you wear flip-flops or opened heel sandals without heels stripes?! Who knew, right?
The fact is that during walking, besides carrying the load of our body, we hold the flip-flops by our fingers and this creates double burden on the bone, and it increases with time. Yes, yes, I know, it's also one of my favorite summer shoes and I wear them too. But we must understand that our feet are so sensible, and to keep them healthy we have to know what to wear and how it will influence our feet.

Now let me give you an example. You wear ballerina shoes or pumps all the time and it always fit you perfectly and now suddenly for some reason every new pair of shoes are uncomfortable and you feel this pressure on the inner side of the foot. The thing is that maybe you didn't pay attention to your feet or maybe you did, but didn't do anything about it and now you have the "Bunion". It's not so visible to you, because you don't remember how it was before and bones are not so much sticking out, but a slight increase has occurred. So for those of you who feel uncomfortable in your own shoes, I want to help you out and show you, how you can easily adopt your last to your feet.

1. Find on the last the center of the big toe bone. It is the widest place on the last in the inner side (gold point A). 





2. Attach adhesive tape to this place and draw ellipse form so it center will match the point A. It's represent your big toe bone .





3. Made a pattern of it in usual way. 











4. Cut it out from the thick leather. I used thin veg-tan leather with the thickness about 2-2,5 mm.









5. Skive around the edges on the inner side of the leather. 



6. Anoint contact glue and attach it to last. 






7. Use the send paper to smooth the leather piece so it will create a smooth line with the last .






8. After you finish it wax it. 





Using this way you will fix this problem. This is just a short tip of an full course on "How to change your last in reversible way to fit your design" . It is a great solution when working with multiply designs but having only one precious last, this way you can change the last form and then get it back to its original appearance. The courses will be launch on membership platform at www.shoemakingcoursesonline.com, more information you can find here.

If you find this information useful and you own one or two precious lasts, let me know with the comment below " I need this information".




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Aug 29, 2013

More Shoemaking Courses For Members Only


Finding the right time or anytime at all to write a post is kind of a big deal this week, and all do with shooting the online courses. I'm not complaining , not at all, but I had no idea, how hard it is. Although I have big experience shooting my YouTube videos, this is nothing like that. Light, sound, shooting, close ups, full shoots and all a lot of terminology that I don't understand gave me a different perspective and a huge amount of respect to people of this profession and my team, thank you. 

Now, if I'm in a thank you mode, I want to thank you all who pre-registered for the courses, and your great comments, it's a wonderful feeling to hear people excited about something you working on. So it made this difficult task to be exciting as well.

As I promised here is more updates for online shoemaking courses that I'm working on :

Aug 20, 2013

Shoemaking Online Courses Registration Is Now Open!



Three weeks have passed since my last post and the reason for that is that I was a very busy bee, and this time it's all doing with MAKING SHOES BLOG. Now when my collection is ready and it's on a roll, I am fully committed to you my dear readers.
In my last post I announced that I'm planning an online shoemaking courses, and the feedback that I got from all of you was incredible, you helped me understand what courses are needed, and some of them were way far from my primary plan. Since then I'm tightly working on the courses, and they building up in this massive stream of content that I'm very confident and excited about.
So, here we are three weeks later and I'm super stoked to announce


MAKING SHOES ONLINE COURSES REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN

Aug 2, 2013

Who Else Wants Shoemaking Course?


Today's post is dedicated to two important announcements. First and finely two days ago my new site that I really, really like lunched, and with it my new and updated collection, which I was crafting for the last few months! As I mentioned in last posts on the marathon week and in my book, I myself work and create my collections using my technique of Freehand pattern construction, so here you go.





This kind of precision in pattern making is very hard and sometimes almost impossible to get in classic pattern making methods. All of the designs as you can see exceed the boundaries of the last, that to consider the way of constructing a pattern in normal way is very hard to calculate, believe me I tried. I'm in purpose showing you such an extreme example for shoe pattern, but you can surely use it in your own design, to shorten your process and to give yourself more freedom in your creation.


The most interesting part of this collection for me was to work with veg tan leather, for which I came up with 
3-dimensional texture. The lines of the texture descend with lines of the pattern, creating a visual effect of motion. You are more than welcome to visit my new website share and like and I would love to hear your feedback, so you can write them down below.

As I mentioned in the previous posts, I'm planning new things for this blog, so here they are. A training shoemaking courses online.
I have long realized that online we can learn not only math and physics, but also shoemaking. This was proved by you and your work. 

Because it's physically impossible to dive into details of all aspects in creating the shoe in books. They are small details but it's very important to know them, to make professional, complete shoes. In the courses I plan to teach in detail all types of shoes and theirs variations of patterns from the drawing on the last to the finished pair, how to sew, lasts, how to last and more. Although it's online training I believe that it is very important that in the courses we can learn and discuss the process. The courses will be divided into levels for beginners, advanced and master class course. At the moment I haven't made a list of the courses yet, it's more of sharing this idea with you, So now that is what I need you to do.

If you are interested in participating this kind of on-line training, write "yes, I want shoemaking course" in the comment here on the blog, more than that, write what are your weakness and what shoemaking course you would like to participate, what you need to learn?!

















Jul 12, 2013

Day 5 : Here’s a Quick Way To Make Homemade Leather Print


The marathon week is came to an end and today I have the last tutorial from this series for you. I hope this week was beneficial and real kind of a marathon for you, it was sure a race for me, making those tutorials every day and I'm sure my family will appreciate the fact that it is all over now. Although it was not a simple task, I really wanted to make things more clear, and that each chapter from the book will be perfectly explained in details. I will continue to explore the chapters from the book in the community page at Google+, so we could move on, and I do have exciting plans for the near future  but let's keep it till the next post.





Day 4: How You Know You Made The Correct Pattern Or How To Avoid Most Common Mistakes?


Today my post is dedicated to a very important moment in the process of making patterns. Surely each of you wondered what is the right way to attach adhesive tape to a cardboard that you just taken down from a last . Many of you have asked me about it, and today I'll show you the most accurate and easiest way (this is so simple that you would not believe!).
In fact, this is the first condition for correctness of your patterns, even before the gold points (2nd paragraph from the book), when the basic pattern is attached in the right angle, matching height of the heel. No matter if you can find the right golden points and drew correctly your design by them, it will not save from the future problems with the pattern if you attached the adhesive tape pattern to the cardboard incorrectly.

Lets begin:

1) The most important thing is to determine the correct height of the heel of your shoe. I already showed it in the first post of our marathon week in the "boot construction using the gold points", but as my Russian grandmother says ,"Repetition is a mother of teaching". So to determine the height of the heel, put a pencil under toe area of the last and measure the height from the heel to the ground .




2) Draw on cardboard two perpendicular lines and mark the height of the heel on the vertical line (point D). After removing adhesive pattern from the last, attach it in the way that the end of the heel at the point H1 coincides with the point D, and Point F connects with the horizontal line. 



Remember to attach the pattern in such a way that in the distance H1F would not forme folds, otherwise your pattern at this point will be less than it should be, and upper will be hard to last. For example, the pump pattern will be open at the sides.
You're probably familiar with this phenomenon, and it is precisely because the pattern is shorter in the bottom than at the top, so the sides of your shoes are loose, too open, and it have nothing to do with you lasting skill.



3) After making the necessary additions to the pattern for lasting,



 cut out your pattern out of leather or paper, as I do it and pull it on the last. You will see that the pattern is well fit your last. 















Well, now after reading the entire post you know how to avoid unnecessary mistakes, but I know you have more questions on a subject, so post your comment bellow.


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Jul 11, 2013

Attention : Blogpost Email Not Delivered?!


This is not the third day tutorial and don't worry it's coming later today and it is one that you don't want to miss, I promise.
I'm posting now this mini-post because I got an important email from a couple of my subscribers, saying that for some time they don't get my post delivered to their email. I checked that right away, and apperrently there was some technical issue with feedburner.com (email service) delivering some of the email. Hopefully now it all is fixed, but if you still don't have post delivered to your email, please let me know.

Another important issue that is happening now, is getting the RSS feeds of my blog through Google Reader now is finished as Google reader is no longer operating. My suggestion to you, if you like to read your RSS feed is Bloglovin  and you can follow the blog by clicking the link bellow and follow.

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Another great way to always get notifications about new posts is Shoemaking & Creative community on google + and you are welcome to Join.
As I closed my Facebook "Making Shoes" page, I'll be updating news and other shoemaking ideas that can't be included in  my post on Google +, so you have a good reason to join. 



  
Hold on till evening : today tutorial will be 

"How you know you made the correct pattern or how to avoid most common mistakes?"

See you later!

Sveta Kletina













Jul 10, 2013

Day 3 : How To Transform Your Sandal Last Into Platform Sandal Last


Today is the third day of our marathon and the theme of the day is : How to convert sandal last into a platform last.    
 The sole surface of the platform last is always must be flat, it doesn't have curves which are true, as our foot has them and so as most of lasts. Therefore, to work with platform you must have a special last with flat bottom. In today's tutorial I will show you how any shoe (I show an example of sandal last) can be transformed into a last for platform shoes.

1. Note the curve, which is on the last, which I mentioned before. 





2. Now this curve should be removed, that is to make a flat surface of the sole. For this, I must grind the bottom of the last with a file, holding the hand 90 degrees straight so the grinding will be even through the all surface, so you wouldn't get one edge of the last lower than the other. So grind slowly and constantly check if it's even by applying the ruler to the last as shown in the picture below.

Jul 9, 2013

Day 2: How to adopt your design to Golden points by bending some rules?


 

Knowing the gold points is surely makes your life as designer or shoemaker much easier but knowing them, memorizing them will not solve your problem unless you making the same boot over and over again. You must know how to use this knowledge, to create your own formulas, because each design that you may have will extend the possibilities that those points gives you, and you need to know how to fix it. One thing for sure, it comes with experience and creative approach, not to mention other aspects that are influence your design, like type and correctness of the last you use, type of leather, it could be too thick, to stretched, no stretched the best advice I can give you is, learn it, use it, make it your own.

Here are couple questions and answers that emerged from the book:

  •  How to stay in the safe area (golden points) but exceed the classic last borders. (from chapter 2 , 4)

Visually divide the last into equal segments, so you will be able to work in the last proportions:

For example: Let's say I want to make asymmetric Channel shoes with geometric forms in the pattern. To do it I visually divided the last into 4 even segments, that are created by lines LM,KK1 ( middle of the last length), FC.

By creating volume in the heel( 2 segments- LM, KK1) I need to make this volume equal in other two segments KK1, CF according to the geometric forms of the pattern.



As you see, by doing this I work according to the rules of Golden points and I divide the last into proportional segments that are helping me to extend the boundaries of the last and in the same time staying in the last proportions. That's what I call bending the rules.

  •  Selectively chose the gold points that you need to work with your design 

Jul 8, 2013

Shoemaking Marathon Week: Day One


After a lot of writing and answering questions for the past week, I decided that few actions need to be done. A lot of questions regarding the "Shoemaking & Techniques for Creative Footwear Design" book evolved in areas and directions that I didn't thought of them , but it is alright and I'm here to explore the book more thoroughly.
Because, nobody wants to read this post for an hour, and because I didn't wrote everything yet, and still thinking of how to explain some of the questions that you asked me or you may ask in the future, we will do it a whole week.
Here is what we will be exploring for the next three days:



* Day one: The most asked about chapter is chapter 2, the "Golden points". So, for the day one (today) I will be doing tutorial on" How to properly construct the Boot pattern according to gold points". 



* Day two : (Hello chapter 2, again) " How to adopt your design to Golden points by bending some rules". This one is for those of you who struggle with strict rules of pattern making. When your vision of design is way different from what the golden points are, and you know that if you break them, you will have some issues with your shoes. I will show you how to fix it in more creative and professional way.

* Day three: Since the chapter 6, (How to build an entire collection just with 2 types of lasts) "made the day" for some of you and that fact made my day as well, I wanted to extend this chapter ideas and that's what we going to do on the third day, " How to transform your sandal last into platform sandal last".

This is the schedule for next three days, and the rest will be updated, you are welcome to add your own questions that you had from the book, and I will try to include them as well.

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